
The natural defenses of the scalp and of the skin in general have the task of avoiding diseases and alterations of the deeper layers.
To preserve the health of our skin and hair, it is therefore essential to adopt those measures that guarantee their integrity and, in the event of alteration, take all measures aimed at restoring their original conditions.
Stratum corneum
It is the most superficial layer of the skin, formed by a dense network of >keratinized cells flattened and close together, forming a barrier that opposes the loss of liquids and the penetration of >bacteria.
The reduced humidity significantly limits the growth of an adverse bacterial flora, especially fungistic. The cells of the stratum corneum (corneocytes) renew every about 14 days and daily the skin flares in an invisible way, bringing with it the microbes that settle between the slits interposed between the gills.

PROTECTIVE BACTERIAL FLORA (OR MICROBIOTA)
The scalp is normally populated by a large amount of microorganisms (bacteria and fungi in particular) that form the "flora bacterial protection" or "microbiota".
The microbiota coexists with our skin in a state of symbiosis that allows the correct balance and maintenance of the state of health of the skin itself and hair.
A change in the balance of the microbiota can lead to serious pathologies and promote the establishment of a pathogenic microbial flora.
HYDROLIPID FILM
The hydrolipidic film is a kind of multifunctional protective film present on the skin, consisting of a lipidic part and an aqueous mixture.
The hydrolipidic film insinuates itself between the corneocytes that form the stratum corneum of the skin, creating a fluid but stable structure, having a protective barrier function from bacterial and regulate the maintenance of cutaneous homeostasis. When the hydrolipidic film is damaged, the skin becomes sensitive to polluting factors, physical, chemical, mechanical and climatic stress and above all to the attack of harmful microorganisms, fungi, viruses and bacteria.
The hydrolipidic film consists of a mix of sebum, sweat, hydrophilic substances and lipids, mostly from the secretion of the sebaceous and sweat glands. More specifically, it consists of:
- 95% of fatty substances (<triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, ceramides and other lipids produced by the sebaceous glands; sphingolipids, fatty acids, cholesterol and other epidermal lipids produced by kranocytes). In children, since sebum begins to be produced only during puberty, the fat-soluble part is made up only of epidermal fats. These lipids are made up, even in adults, of fatty acids, among which we include the important linoleic acid essential for the epidermal barrier because, in case of deficiency, the stratum corneum becomes particularly dry and scaly.
- 5% of an aqueous part consisting of Natural Hydration Factor (NMF), a mixture of water, amino acids, lactic acid, sugars, polysaccharides and other hygroscopic substances (able to absorb humidity and retain water) and from sweat which, in turn, is a mixture of water, mineral salts, amino acids and lactic acid. Sweat also contains antibodies (IgA, IgG, IgE), immunoglobulins, which increase the defensive action against external aggressions.
THE FUNCTIONS OF THE HYDROLIPID FILM
The hydrolipidic film, besides acting as a protective barrier defending the skin from the external environment, from pathogenic microorganisms and from the free radicals, contributes to:
- Maintain skin hydration
- Maintain the skin pH at slightly acidic values (between 4.5 and 5.6) in order to make the environment inhospitable for harmful microorganisms
- Maintain skin elasticity
The hydrolipidic film in fact calibrates the surface hydration of the skin, hindering the dehydration of the skin thanks to the insulating action of its lipid component and also to the ability of the Natural Hydration Factor to retain water.
This thin layer also represents a communication route between the various layers of the skin and the external environment: keeping it healthy also means promoting the integrity and efficiency of the intracellular exchanges of the deeper layers of the skin.
ALTERATIONS OF THE HYDROLIPID FILM
The alterations of the hydrolipidic film determine skin dryness and promote its sensitization, generating an attitude to irritation and redness. The various substances that make up the Natural Hydration Factor stabilize in fact the pH of the skin in slightly acidic values.
When this value is altered, resulting either too acidic or too alkaline, the skin becomes more vulnerable to attacks by pathogenic microorganisms and therefore more subject to infections and hypersensitivity. In the long run, these alterations can generate scalp anomalies and jeopardize the activity of the bulb itself, compromising the regular development of the hair, to the point of shortening its life cycle, thus making it increasingly weaker and subject to premature hair loss.
There are various causes that can compromise the balance of the hydrolipidic film. We remember:
- Use of too aggressive detergents
- Exposure to UV rays and adverse environmental and climatic factors. In summer the worst enemy is represented by excessive heat that stimulates an overproduction of sweat and the sun rays that favor the formation of free radicals; in winter, on the contrary, it is cold.
- Professional environments with dusts or vapors.
- chemical treatments
- hormonal alterations
- Drugs
- Persistent stress condition
- Aging - with age slows down the renewal of cells that make up the stratum corneum, making it thinner and less able to repair itself in case of damage.
HOW TO RESTORE THE HYDROLIPIDIC FILM
The IKS trichological line, to rebalance the hydrolipidic film and restore tone and elasticity to the skin, offers its solution with products based on natural active ingredients, aimed at restoring the right level of acidity to the pH, to cleanse delicately without causing further irritation, to provide the right hydration and an adequate presence of lipids and other substances, restoring what, for some reason, it got altered.
Our professional method I.K.S. Innovation Kapelli System, for optimal use of the line, recommends to start with a good deep cleaning to remove slag and toxins. To avoid worsening the situation and aggravating redness and inflammation, it is however necessary to use products with intense, but not aggressive action.
THE PROFESSIONAL PEELING PROCESS
PEELING CREAM AF, is a creamy emulsion specific for cleaning the follicular ostium. With its natural ingredients (Sage Extract, Rosemary and Peppermint Essential Oil) it carries out a dermopurifying, refreshing, toning and normalizing action on the skin's functions. The presence of Panthenol, or Provitamin B5, helps retain moisture in the skin, promoting rehydration.
To strengthen its action, always respecting suffering skin, it can be mixed with the SKIN PURIFICANT, a mix of Essential Oils which performs a antiseptic action, capable of effectively combating harmful microorganisms present in skin with an altered hydrolipidic film. With White Thyme Essential Oil, Sage Extract, Rosemary Extract, Peppermint Essential Oil and Watercress Extract, it purifies, refreshes and tones the skin, as well as providing vitamins A, B1 , B2, Mineral salts, and UREA, one of the components of the Natural Hydration Factor.

Once the deep cleaning has been carried out, it is necessary to remove further residues by washing the skin with an extremely delicate shampoo, which cleanses gently.
Cleansing
SHAMPOO BABY BY, with Wild Mallow, Calendula Extract and hydrolysed Wheat Proteins, hydrates, decongests, soothes, repairs irritated and sensitive scalp, giving immediate relief and comfort and leaving the elastic and toned skin. The presence of a balanced mixture of vegetal-extracted surfactants allows you to remove dirt and bacteria without attacking the skin, but rather helping it in the rebalancing action of the own pH.

Conditioner
After shampooing, you should continue to integrate water, lipids and other substances, essential for the health of skin and hair, with REPAIR CREAM RC, intensive restructuring cream.
Repair Cream RC contains Avocado Oil, composed of high percentages of fatty acids, phytosterols and vitamins, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, strongly hydrating, refreshing and softeningas well as bactericidal, Extract Glycolic from Ginkgo Biloba, rich in flavonoids and a powerful antioxidant and hydrolyzed soy and quaternized wheat proteins, with hydrating, softening and antistatic properties. Applied to the skin and hair, it helps to restore the missing substances necessary to restore their biological balance.

TO CONCLUSION
As a last operation, the I.K.S. method recommends mixing a few drops of Sensitive Essence with Mineral Acid and distribute the mixture so obtained on the skin, without rinsing.
Essence Sensitive is a mix of essential oils with a strong relaxing and antispasmodic, specific for tense, sensitive and itchy.
Based on Essential Oil of Lemon, Mandarin and Sweet and Bitter Orange, plays a toning and antiseptic, helping to reactivate the functionality of the microcirculation.

Mineral Acid, with Chamazulene, Red vine glycolic extract, blackberry glycolic extract, the trace elements magnesium and zinc, rice and wheat proteins, and the panthenol, integrates mineral salts, amino acids, vitamins, carrying out an important hydrating, restructuring and antistatic action and above all contributing to restore the right level of acidity to the scalp.

With these few operations you can return the biological balance to the scalp.
HOW TO KEEP THE HYDROLIPIDIC FILM HEALTHY
To prevent alterations and try to keep the hydrolipidic film healthy, it is essential to use suitable products that do not attack and deplete the skin of fundamental substances, limit invasive chemical treatments and, if the alteration is caused by anomalies such as dandruff and seborrhea, do not neglect them, but try to keep them under control with appropriate treatments.
A skin in order is in fact the fundamental basis to maintain as long as possible a full and healthy hair and prevent the shortening of the biological hair cycle, the main cause of early fall and progressive reduction of mass.
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