DAGLI ANNI ’80 AL 2023: L’EVOLUZIONE DELLE SCHIARITURE PER CAPELLI “BACIATI DAL SOLE”

 

Le schiariture dei capelli che abbiamo visto proposte dai più grandi hairstylists nel corso degli anni, a creare suggestivi effetti speciali, hanno subito evoluzioni, ma anche parecchie rivisitazioni. Tra tante ne abbiamo scelte dieci.

Abbandonate le tradizionali mèches che tanto hanno spopolato negli anni ’80  e ‘90, con ciocche di capelli decolorati in modo deciso in cui lo stacco tra il riflesso e il colore di base risultava netto e artificioso o i “colpi di sole o di luce” con schiariture meno accentuate ma sempre poco naturali, negli ultimi anni si sono moltiplicate le tecniche per proporre teste con riflessature sapientemente distribuite, per effetti “sunkissed”  molto simili a quelli prodotti da una vacanza estiva.

Mèches tradizionali

Una tra le tecniche più note, molto richiesta soprattutto nel periodo estivo, è il “Balayage”, effettuata a mano libera e pensata per schiarire o colorare i capelli in maniera naturale, meno evidente sulle radici e più marcata su lunghezze e punte. Il Balayage crea schiariture irregolari, alcune larghe e alcune più sottili, alcune distanti dalla radice, altre invece attaccate alla radice stessa, il cui effetto finale sarà un’illuminazione generale della chioma, con punti luce concentrati su alcune ciocche, proprio come se si trattasse di naturali riflessi generati dal sole. Il Balayage si può fare su qualunque base e su capelli di qualunque lunghezza purchè si individuino le giuste tonalità  per donare alla chioma i migliori contrasti.

Balayage – foto da web

Meno frequente del Balayage, ma comunque presente, il Reverse Balayage” è l’opposto della precedente tecnica, ossia parte dalla radice, creando sfumature che si scuriscono arrivando alle punte.

Reverse balayage – foto da web

Come non citare poi lo “Shatush”, forse un po’ superato ma ancora richiesto, dove la schiaritura viene effettuata applicando il decolorante su capelli cotonati alla radice, in modo compatto, da metà lunghezze fino alle punte.

Shatush – foto da web

Balayage e Shatush sembrano dare risultati finali abbastanza simili, ma in realtà le due tecniche sono molto diverse tra di loro.  Mentre lo Shatush è sola decolorazione, il Balayage può prevedere decolorazione ma anche colore, utilizzati in contemporanea per ottenere più giochi e sfumature. Entrambe sono tecniche a mano libera anche se l’evoluzione del Balayage può prevedere l’utilizzo della stagnola. Il Balayage poi non prevede la cotonatura, caratteristica classica dello Shatush che risulta particolarmente invasiva per chi ha capelli fragili o già trattati, per i quali, quindi, il Balayage è più indicato.

Per l’estate sono richiestissime le “Shadow roots”, un gioco di sfumature che lascia le radici più scure, come a creare un’ombra (da cui il loro nome) limitando le schiariture alle sole lunghezze, sfumate più chiare, a riprodurre un effetto estremamente naturale, come capelli schiariti dal sole. La studiata “ombreggiatura” alle radici, permette di camuffare l’antiestetico effetto della ricrescita ed è quindi particolarmente adatta per il periodo delle vacanze.

Shadow roots – Foto da web

E a proposito di ombre,  anche il “Sombrè”, conosciuto pure come “soft ombré” è ritornato tra le tendenze dell’estate 2023. E’ una tecnica ideale per regalare l’effetto “baciati dal sole” alle chiome di qualunque tonalità, senza abbandonare il colore naturale. L’”ombreggiatura” citata nel suo nome, in questo caso significa il passaggio da una nuance all’altra in modo impercettibile, senza stacchi cromatici evidenti. Ad essere coinvolte nel trattamento sono solo le punte e in parte anche le lunghezze, mentre le radici e la sommità rimangono escluse. Normalmente vengono mixate due tonalità della stessa famiglia di colore, per cui l’ombreggiatura risulta estremamente delicata, con schiariture dolci, naturali e appena percettibili.

Sombré – Foto da web

Un altro effetto ancora di grande tendenza è il “Face Framing”, una tecnica di schiaritura che si limita alle due ciocche laterali che incorniciano il viso. Si può fare su capelli scuri e chiari, corti e lunghi, ma bisogna studiarla con attenzione, tenendo conto della forma del viso e delle tonalità di base dei capelli e, proprio perché si limita ad un’area ben precisa, diventa fondamentale non commettere errori!

Face framing – Foto da web

Hanno spopolato nell’estate 2022, ma anche quest’anno sono richiestissime: sono le  “Babylights”, una modalità di decolorazione verticale caratterizzata da schiariture molto sottili, che danno luce e volume anche ai capelli molto fini, grazie al sapiente gioco di luci e ombre creato dalla leggera alternanza di toni scuri e chiari.

Il nome “baby” allude alle dimensioni delle riflessature, ma anche all’effetto che vuole ricreare, simile alle schiariture naturali che illuminano i capelli dei bimbi verso la fine delle vacanze estive.

Le Babylights possono essere realizzate nella nuance che si preferisce, di solito di qualche tonalità più chiara rispetto a quella di partenza e, a seconda dei gusti o del proprio incarnato, può virare su colori caldi e mielati o su toni più freddi. 

Trattandosi di schiariture molto delicate, sono indicate sia per chi vuole solo avere riflessi che diano un effetto di maggiore luminosità, sia per chi intende proprio schiarire i capelli, ma in modo graduale. La tecnica prevede un movimento verticale dove le ciocche, divise in piccolissimi ciuffetti ravvicinati, vengono schiarite dall’alto al basso, a partire dall’altezza che si preferisce.

Baby lights – Foto da web

Ma la tendenza più in voga per l’estate 2023, arriva dai social, dove tutti ne parlano con commenti più o meno positivi. Si tratta dello SCANDINAVIAN HAIRLINE, i “colpi di luce al contrario”, ossia la decolorazione delle sole radici che vanno a creare  attorno al volto una sottile linea di capelli più chiari. E’ una tecnica scandinava che prevede l’applicazione del decolorante direttamente lungo l’attaccatura dei capelli senza alcuna carta stagnola, andando a catturare anche i cosiddetti baby hair, ossia i capelli molto corti e indisciplinati presenti nella zona della fronte e delle tempie.

L’effetto ottenuto è quello di creare attorno al viso una sorta di aureola chiarissima, che dona un aspetto angelico, simile a quello di una dea nordica. Lo scandinavian hairline viene di solito effettuato su chiome già bionde, per rafforzare lo stacco con il viso, ma è una tecnica che viene utilizzata anche per i capelli scuri, limitandosi a schiarire l’area dell’attaccatura di due toni rispetto al colore originale.

Rispetto alle tradizionali schiariture come il “balayage” che va a schiarire solo le lunghezze senza arrivare all’attaccatura creando così un effetto modulato e sfumato, questa tecnica è molto più omogenea e netta e il risultato ottenuto è decisamente più luminoso.

Non si può però fare a meno di riscontrare delle criticità. La tecnica dello “scandinavian hairline” prevede infatti che il decolorante venga applicato direttamente sulla pelle, senza la barriera delle stagnole, determinando quindi possibili reazioni cutanee che vanno dagli arrossamenti, ai pruriti, alle bruciature e, nel caso di prodotti particolarmente aggressivi, a vere e proprie ustioni.

Modalità di applicazione del decolorante nelle Scandinavia Hairline – Foto da web
Risultato finale Scandinavian Hairline – Foto da web

Noi di H.K.Hair Kulture per tutte le tecniche di decolorazione, proponiamo FORCE BLU DECO’, il nostro decolorante senza ammoniaca e schiarenti aggressivi, che consente di ottenere eccellenti sfumature, senza compromettere la salute di cute e capelli. In modo particolare, per la SCANDINAVIAN HAIRLINE, vista l’applicazione effettuata direttamente in cute in corrispondenza dell’attaccatura dei capelli, per evitare irritazioni e reazioni avverse, consigliamo di miscelare FORCE BLU DECO’ alla crema protettiva DERMAL PROTECTION della linea tricologica IKS.

Qualunque sia la tecnica applicata, la decolorazione rimane comunque un’ operazione invasiva per i capelli, soprattutto se effettuata con prodotti molto aggressivi.

Diventa pertanto indispensabile  valutarne la condizione prima di sottoporli a certi trattamenti, così come è assolutamente doveroso riservare cure e attenzioni particolari alle lunghezze decolorate, che vanno lavate, idratate e nutrite con prodotti adeguati, volti a ripristinare il loro naturale equilibrio.

La linea tricologica IKS delle soluzioni secondo natura, propone Shampoo specifici per lunghezze destrutturate, privi di tensioattivi aggressivi e Ristrutturanti,  a base di proteine vegetali e altri estratti naturali  che, utilizzati con regolarità, aiutano i capelli a ritrovare l’originale struttura, facendo loro recuperare luminosità, volume e morbidezza.

Per evitare poi un rientro dalle vacanze con la chioma dal disastroso “effetto paglia”, è opportuno che si seguano scrupolosamente le regole basilari per la protezione e la prevenzione dei danni provocati dall’azione aggressiva dei raggi solari e della salsedine, che su capelli già debilitati, risulta decisamente amplificata.

E’ inoltre consigliabile, periodicamente, farsi controllare con l’apposita microcamera computerizzata che rileva anche le minime imperfezioni, dal proprio parrucchiere H.K., specialista della salute e della bellezza dei capelli, e sottoporsi al trattamento professionale della Ricostruzione, validissima sia per correggere i danni già conclamati, sia come forma di prevenzione.

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