Estate: come proteggere i nostri capelli?….sì perchè,  se da un lato non vediamo l’ora di poter beneficiare di calde giornate di sole, con bagni ristoratori al mare o in piscina, dall’altro dobbiamo anche essere preparati alle conseguenze che questi fattori determinano su cuoio capelluto e lunghezze.  Per capire meglio i danni che i nostri capelli possono riportare da eccessive esposizioni ai raggi solari e contatti troppo frequenti con salsedine e acqua marina, sarà opportuno spendere qualche parola sulla loro delicata struttura.

STRUTTURA E FUNZIONE DEL CAPELLO

Ciascun capello è formato da due parti: il bulbo o radice e il fusto.

  • Il bulbo non è visibile in quanto si trova nella cute, all’interno del follicolo pilifero, una particolare struttura della pelle la cui parte più profonda arriva sino al derma. Alla base del bulbo sono presenti le cosiddette cellule della matrice del pelo, che determinano la crescita del capello. A questo livello è anche presente la papilla dermica, una struttura che contiene vasi sanguigni, vasi linfatici e strutture nervose, il cui compito è quello di provvedere al nutrimento e al controllo delle cellule della matrice del pelo. Al follicolo pilifero sono collegati la ghiandola sebacea e il muscolo erettore del pelo (o muscolo piloerettore).
  • Il fusto, ossia la parte visibile del capello, è una struttura “morta” costituita da cellule totalmente cheratinizzate che hanno perso il nucleo e le loro funzioni vitali.

Queste cellule contengono alte concentrazioni di una scleroproteina fibrosa molto resistente, la cheratina. La cheratina presente nei capelli e nelle unghie è molto più dura di quella presente nella pelle, in quanto contiene una grandissima quantità di cistina, un aminoacido ricco di zolfo. E’ proprio fra le diverse molecole di cistina che si formano i ponti disolfuro, che danno al capello grande resistenza. I ponti disolfuro detti anche zolfo-zolfo sono quelli che determinano e mantengono la forma dei capelli. Quando i ponti disolfuro si rompono, le molecole di cistina si separano e il capello diventa fragile.

Altri componenti dei capelli sono:

  • Acqua;
  • Lipidi (trigliceridi, cere, fosfolipidi, ecc.)
  • Minerali (magnesio, zinco, ferro, rame ecc.)
  • Pigmenti responsabili della colorazione.

Tagliando un capello in senso orizzontale, se ne può apprezzare la sua struttura, suddivisibile in tre parti:

  • La cuticola: è lo strato più esterno del capello ed è formata da cellule cornee, trasparenti, non pigmentate, appiattite e disposte come le tegole di un tetto. Le scaglie rimangono aderenti grazie ad una sostanza collosa che mantiene stabile la loro coesione, salvaguardando le strutture interne. La cuticola protegge infatti il fusto dall’ambiente e la sua integrità è molto importante per la salute del capello. Data la posizione in cui si trova è la prima ad essere danneggiata.
  • La corteccia: è la parte intermedia del capello, costituita da cellule morte appiattite (cellule cheatinizzate) disposte verticalmente e in file parallele. Costituisce la maggior parte del capello e ne determina la forma e la consistenza. E’ ricca di melanina (pigmento colorato). La corteccia aiuta a conferire proprietà meccaniche e resistenza al capello.
  • Il midollo: è la parte più interna del capello, formato da cellule più grandi rispetto agli altri strati, generalmente separate tra di loro da spazi di aria (l’aria trattenuta ha funzione protettiva dal freddo) che in qualche caso possono influire sulla tonalità di colore. Il midollo può essere presente anche in modo discontinuo o addirittura essere assente.

I capelli svolgono l’importante funzione di termoregolazione e protezione del cuoio capelluto, per cui, oltre all’innegabile aspetto estetico, prendersene cura, prevenendone i problemi, è fondamentale per la nostra stessa salute.

Dopo aver esaminato la struttura del capello cerchiamo di conoscere quindi un po’ meglio i raggi solari, in modo particolare i raggi ultravioletti, particolarmente intensi nel periodo estivo e capire in che modo possono arrecare seri danni a cuoio capelluto e capelli.

I RAGGI ULTRAVIOLETTI

I raggi ultravioletti si distinguono, a seconda della loro lunghezza d’onda,  in UVA, UVB e UVC. Questi ultimi vengono filtrati dall’ozono e non raggiungono mai il nostro pianeta.

I raggi UVA rappresentano il 95% dei raggi UV e la loro irradiazione è costante durante tutta la giornata e per tutto l’anno; i raggi UVB invece sono maggiormente presenti tra aprile e ottobre e la loro intensità varia a seconda del meteo, della stagione, dell’orario e del tasso di inquinamento.

Il danno provocato dai raggi UV è determinato dal fatto che stimolano la produzione di radicali liberi, ossia molecole instabili e altamente reattive che, quando in eccesso, possono danneggiare le cellule del nostro organismo, come le proteine e gli aminoacidi presenti nel capello. In particolare gli UVA sono responsabili della perdita di colore in quanto inducono reazioni di foto-ossidazione dei pigmenti melaninici, schiarendo e ingiallendo sia i capelli naturali che quelli colorati. La melanina, oltre a dare colore ai capelli, svolge una funzione protettiva che si riduce sensibilmente nel momento in cui il fenomeno della foto-ossidazione ne altera la composizione.

Studi al microscopio hanno inoltre dimostrato che i raggi UVB causano la rottura dei ponti disolfuro che intercorrono tra le fibre di cheratina della corteccia e  che determinano la resistenza meccanica del fusto, rendendo così il capello indebolito e soggetto a rottura al minimo trauma.

CONSEGUENZE SU CUOIO CAPELLUTO E CAPELLI

Poco protetti da una melanina foto-ossidata e sfibrati dall’alterazione dell’integrità delle proteine fibrillari della corteccia, i capelli risultano così scoloriti,  secchi, fragili e ruvidi al tatto, dando alla chioma un aspetto spento e rovinato.

Anche il cuoio capelluto non è esente da conseguenze da un’esposizione eccessiva ai raggi solari. Può essere infatti oggetto di disidratazione o addirittura di ustioni che possono danneggiare i follicoli e compromettere la salute del fusto. Anche senza arrivare alle bruciature, comunque l’azione intensa dei raggi solari può alterare l’attività del microcircolo, fondamentale per l’apporto nutritivo alla matrice del capello e alla sua conseguente crescita e agire su particolari proteine, le desmogleine, che hanno il compito di trattenere il pelo dentro il follicolo e la cui degradazione anticipa la caduta del capello. Non è un caso quindi se, a distanza di qualche settimana, molti sono afflitti da abbondante caduta.

Se poi aggiungiamo  anche lo stress determinato da acqua salata, sabbia, eventuale cloro che  amplificano l’azione già di per sé aggressiva del sole, capiamo che diventa fondamentale presentarci all’appuntamento estivo con capelli in forma che cercheremo di mantenere tali, proteggendoli con prodotti specifici a base di principi naturali molto simili alla loro struttura, in modo da fornire resistenza e capacità di prevenire ed eventualmente porre rimedio ai danni degli agenti atmosferici estivi.

LINEA TRICOLOGICA IKS PER LA CURA E LA PROTEZIONE DI CUTE E CAPELLI

La linea tricologica IKS, a base di principi attivi funzionali ad estrazione vegetale, propone i suoi prodotti RISTRUTTURANTI, validi alleati tutto l’anno per il mantenimento della salute di cuoio capelluto e capelli, ma particolarmente indicati per la stagione estiva.

REPAIR CREAM RC

E’ una crema rigenerante e nutritiva, dalla forte azione ristrutturante e idratante. La presenza di Olio di Avocado, ricco di vitamine A, E e B, dona corpo e lucentezza ai capelli proteggendoli dalle aggressioni esterne quali vento, freddo e luce solare. L’Estratto di Aloe Barbadensis, dall’effetto antinfiammatorio e rinfrescante, idrata e lenisce le cuti secche e disidratate. L’Estratto glicolico di Gingko Biloba, dall’alto contenuto di flavonoidi, agisce sui capelli come agente protettivo contro i fenomeni ossidativi, bloccando la formazione dei radicali liberi e interviene sulla permeabilità dei capillari, riattivando la circolazione periferica. Le proteine idrolizzate di soia e quaternizzate di grano apportano grande nutrimento e idratazione a cute e capelli.

Utilizzata dopo lo shampoo specifico IKS, ha un effetto condizionante e ristrutturante su cuoio capelluto e lunghezze, soprattutto se sottoposti a stress da agenti chimici o ambientali.

KERATINE HK

E’ un complesso di proteine, aminoacidi ed oli cheratinici di origine vegetale che agiscono direttamente sulle zone danneggiate dei capelli, rigenerandone la struttura e rendendoli lucidi e resistenti. La presenza di proteine di grano e di riso, ricche di aminoacidi essenziali  utili alla produzione di cheratina e collagene, consente un’importante azione riparatrice, idratante e nutriente mentre l’Estratto di The Verde, ricco di polifenoli, caffeina e vitamine B1, B2, C contrasta efficacemente i radicali liberi e stimola la microcircolazione, migliorando l’apporto dei nutrienti ai bulbi dei capelli.

Applicata direttamente sui capelli prima della spiaggia, protegge dai raggi solari e da bagni in acqua salata o dolce. Lavata con lo shampoo specifico IKS, lascia i capelli morbidi e setosi. Può comunque essere utilizzata in sinergia con Repair Cream per una ristrutturazione profonda delle lunghezze e idratazione del cuoio capelluto.

MINERAL ACID MA

Normalizza l’equilibrio del pH e apporta la giusta quantità di sali minerali (zinco e magnesio) a cute e capelli. Grazie all’Estratto di camomilla, svolge un’importante funzione antinfiammatoria, rinfrescante e contrasta efficacemente il prurito. L’Estratto glicolico di vite rossa e di mirtillo nero, ricchi di flavonoidi, antiossidanti e antiradicali liberi, rigenerano e tonificano la pelle, favorendo l’aumento della resistenza capillare. Le proteine idrolizzate di riso e grano svolgono importanti azioni ristrutturanti, idratanti, nutrienti e antistatiche.

Utilizzato prima dell’asciugatura, da’ sollievo alla cute irritata da eccessi di sole e di sudore, ripristinando l’equilibrio dei sali minerali perduti e riportando il pH ai suoi normali valori e idrata le lunghezze che diventano morbide e prive di elettricità. Può essere usato anche su cute asciutta in caso di prurito o di bruciore.

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